Chile is known for two libations, pisco and vino, and both have played an important role in the history and economy of the country. Pisco was produced by the Spaniards in the 16th century in Peru and Chile from fermented grapeskins, the remnants of the wine-making process. It is claimed by both countries as having originated there, but the old port of Pisco in Peru may actually place it in that country, although Chileans affirm that the
Valle del Elqui, just below the Atacama Desert is where it was first distilled. Wherever it originated, it's a strong, woody liquor drunk straight up in a shot glass or mixed with fruit flavors in a cocktail.
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| Copper pisco still |
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| Pisco labels |
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| Pisco barrels |
On a trip to La Serena, a town on the north-central coast, I went to one of the pisco distilleries near Vicuña called
CAPEL, which stands for
Cooperativa Agricultura Pisquera Elqui Ltda. The guide explained that the liquor today is made from Muscatel, Pedro Jimenez, and Torontel grapes, mixed in different ratios by different producers. The grapes are crushed, and the remaining 'must' is fermented so that the grape sugar turns to alcohol in huge stainless steel tanks. Then it is filtered and distilled in smaller copper stills and transferred to oak barrels to age. Young pisco is light yellow and tastes like other
aguardientes, whereas aged pisco is darker and sweeter. We were given a taste of CAPEL's flavored piscos, which include mango, pineapple, and coconut. Pisco sours are popular in Chile, made with lime juice, egg white, and sugar, shaken with ice into a froth, and then poured into a glass flute - Salud!
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| Casablanca Valley |
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| Stainless steel tanks |
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| Tasting wine |
Chile also has many wine-growing regions, and I have visited two: the Casablanca Valley with the Fulbrighters in March and the Maipo Valley with Aliana in June. We took a van to the Casablanca Valley for a wine tour and lunch at the
Indomita winery, built in the 1990's to look like a moorish castle on a hill. We saw the stainless steel tanks where the juice of the grapes is fermented with yeast and the underground bodega where the wine is aged in barrels, and afterward we were invited to taste a few varieties. I discovered my favorite Cabernet Blanc there, which I have been buying ever since. Our visit ended with a pleasant lunch on a terrace overlooking acres of vineyards below.
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| Aliana and Cousiño |
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| Old wine barrels |
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| Bodega with aging wine |
When Aliana came from Ecuador at the end of June, we went to the Maipo Valley, named for the river that runs from the
Cordillera de los Andes and waters the vineyards. The name of the winery was
Cousiño Macul, and in contrast to Indomita, a newcomer to the business, it is one of the oldest in the country. In the 16th century, the King of Spain transferred
Viñeda Macul to a conquistador, and later in the 19th century, Matías Cousiño, a mining baron, acquired the property. When he died, his son Luís continued to develop the vineyards, but when he died unexpectedly at the age of 38, his wife, Isadora Goyenechea, took over the work with the help of a French enologist. (A street in Santiago is named after her to commemorate her work with the vineyards.) Today the winery is one of the most prestigious in Chile, and Aliana and I enjoyed walking between the ancient barrels and seeing the remnants of the old process of bottling wine literally by hand. We tasted of few varieties and bought a few bottles to take home. It was there that I discovered my favorite Cabernet Sauvignon (Antiguas Reservas), which I am sipping now.
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In the old bottling cellar
[Click on photos to enlarge] |
Pisco and vino are the two drinks most people order on their evenings out, and I have very much enjoyed
estos tragos durante mi teimpo en Chile!
